The name Ma May is an amalgam of two old street names – Hang May and Hang Ma. The latter was where people shopped for worshipping objects while people went to Hang May to buy furniture made from rattan. At the turn of the century, the streets were joined and given one name: Ma May.
However, the French administration gave the street another name, Rue Des Pavillons Noirs (Black Flag Army) because in 1882, this street was the general headquarters of Quan Co Den (Black Flag Army), a group of renegade imperial troops that had terrorised the French when they were attempting to gain military control of Hanoi.
Traditional House, 87 Ma May
Ma May is one of the Old Quarter’s busiest streets for tourism but it’s also one of the most interesting in terms of architecture and is still home to a number of ancient houses. In fact it has more than any other street in modern Hanoi. The house at 87 Ma May is the most evident. Beautifully preserved, this address is a wonderful representation of the Old Quarter’s architectural heritage.
Built at the end of the 19th century, the house is perfectly constructed with a yard in between the front and back rooms – this is how Vietnamese architects wanted to avoid sunlight and keep interiors cool. The outer part of the ground floor was used for trading activities. The inner sanctum was for living and working. The backroom was for the kitchen and the restroom.
On the second floor, the outer room served as the living room and a place for ancestor worship. The back room was used as a bedroom. Renovated in 1999, the house is a must-see for anyone touring around the Old Quarter.
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